How To Install Carl's Built-In Golf Room Kit

Carl’s Built-In Golf Room Kit is the perfect solution to optimize your space and create a captivating golf paradise in your room. If you're curious about whether a built-in golf simulator is right for your home or commercial indoor golf setup, our assembly videos might just help you make up your mind.

If you're unsure about what or how to order, don't hesitate to contact our expert customer service team for further assistance.

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Video Transcript

Please keep in mind that the transcripts provided here are intended for reference purposes only. For complete instructions on installing Carl’s Built-In Golf Room Kits, we highly recommend consulting the manuals.

Video Transcript for Built-In Golf Screen Kit Instructions

This video will guide you through the complete installation process for your Built-In Golf Screen Kit.

You’ll want to start by organizing your kit. Your kit will include:

• Corner cable anchors with 1/4-inch lag screws

• Pulley wheels with safety wire lynch pins

• Starter Panels with screws and drywall anchors

• Snaphooks with (20) screws and drywall anchors

• Top cable

• Impact screen with pre-fed bottom cable

• Zip ties

• Hook-and-loop straps

• Cable locks with release pins

• Detached flaps

• Optional: Foam Inserts

For tools, make sure you have a socket wrench kit, tape measure, laser level or plumb line, drill and driver with bits, and a step ladder. We also highly recommend grabbing a friend who owes you a favor!

Before you start, take the time to plan, measure, and align your golf room installation properly. A link to detailed assembly instructions is included to help guide you step-by-step in the assembly process. These instructions assume straight, even 2x4 wood-framed walls.

Plan to place your screen at least 1 foot away from the back wall to allow room for fast-flying golf balls. Use a laser level to align all components on an even plane, and remove or adjust trim and obstructions.

Now it's time to install the hardware.

Start with your Corner Cable Anchors. Measure at least 1 foot from each corner of the back wall and mark the placement for all 4 anchors—two on the floor and two on the ceiling.

Place a floor anchor with the tapered end pointing up on the center of your 12in mark. Make sure it's level, mark the bottom angled hole, and drill a pilot hole at a downward angle into the bottom plate of the wall. Secure the anchor using one 1/4-inch lag screw. Use a hand ratchet to tighten the anchor snug to the wall to make sure the lag screw is not overtightened into the anchor. Repeat for the remaining anchors, making sure the two ceiling anchors are installed with their tapered ends pointing down.

Next, install your Starter Panels in a straight, even line just in front of the corner cable anchors. Start at the bottom against the floor, align it with your cable anchor, and screw it into a stud or use drywall anchors. If you need to use drywall anchors, a tip is to screw the panel into the drywall to create your marks for your anchors, remove the starter panel and screws and put anchors in your marked holes, and then rescrew the starter panel into the anchors. Continue installing starter panels up the walls and across the ceiling.

To finish the hardware setup, install your Ceiling Snaphooks. orient the clip openings toward the rear of the room and secure them flush against the starter panels. Drill them securely into a ceiling stud or use drywall anchors, and try to keep them spaced out evenly along the ceiling.

Now it's time to install the impact screen. The screen uses a top and bottom cable. The bottom cable is pre-fed through the bottom of the impact screen, while the top cable gets installed first.

Press the top cable into one ceiling corner cable anchor, insert the pulley wheel, and secure it with a lynch pin through the lower hole. Repeat on the opposite side. The top cable should span the ceiling with an even amount hanging down on both sides. Finish by clipping the cable into your ceiling snaphooks.

Next grab the impact screen with cable. When unfolding the screen, be careful to keep the screen from touching the floor and becoming dirty. Orient the impact screen with the Carl’s Place logo in the top left. Loosely zip-tie the top two corners of the screen around the pulley wheel of the ceiling anchors. Your screen should now hang loosely with the bottom cable lying on the floor. Don’t worry about wrinkles—they’ll relax under tension over time.

Take the pre-fed bottom cable, press it into a floor corner anchor, and secure the pulley wheel with a lynch pin. Repeat on the other side. Next you’ll need the cable locks. To connect the top and bottom cables on each side, feed each end into the angled holes of a cable lock, and pull the ends taut to secure. Return to the floor anchors and add a zip tie through each bottom corner grommet around the pulley wheel.

Now switch to hook-and-loop straps. Starting along the top of the screen, use straps through each grommet and around the cable. Tighten each strap only enough to maintain an even gap between the edge of the screen and the ceiling. Feed the end through a grommet and around the cable with the soft loop side facing out, insert into the buckle, and fold back to secure. Work your way along the top and then down both sides. Keep the screen centered as you go rather than trying to shift it later.

Check your screen tension and spacing. Make sure the bottom is level with the floor and straps are adjusted for an even gap along all edges. Adjust straps to achieve the right balance of tension by making sure they maintain and even gap along the screen edges.

Next, identify your detached flaps. Flap length varies by room size. The width flap Spans the width of your screen and has intersecting hook-and-loop strips on one side. The Height flaps span the height of your screen and have a long hook fastener strip on each side. The flaps have a matte side and a shiny side. It looks best when the matte sides face the golfer. The matte side has a cross-hatch stitch,and the shiny side has stitches that are rows.

Start by Attaching the top Width Flap by attaching the corner of the hook and loop on the flap, to the top corner hook and loop on the screen.

Continue along that top edge.

If you did not purchase the optional foam inserts, continue by lifting the flap up and securing it to the ceiling with the hook and loop strips. If you purchased the optional foam inserts, you’ll install those starting at the center, with the narrow edge of the foam against the frame. Wrap the flap around the foam to secure it with the hook and loop strips.

Any excess foam at the ends will be used behind the height flaps next.

For the side Height Flaps, align starting at the top, fold over, and secure to the wall starter panels. Tuck any excess flap material in at the bottom.

Review your work and reattach the hook and loop to smooth out any lines as necessary.

Your built-in Golf screen kit is now complete! You can now finish installing any additional protective add-ons, such as wall panels, to your existing enclosure setup.

If you have any questions or feedback, feel free to shoot us an email, give us a call, or contact us on our website.

We want to see your new golf setup! Go to www.carlofet.com/share-with-us to send us pics, videos, or reviews, or tag us with #mycarlsplace on social media. Be sure to subscribe to our channel for more videos on building, using, and enhancing your golf simulator.

Video Transcript for Built-In Golf Room Panel Kit Instructions

This video will guide you through the panel installation process for your built-in golf enclosure. 

What you will need
You’ll want to start by organizing your kit. Your kit will include:

• Padded panels sized to fit your space
• French Cleats, screws and anchors
• Z-Clips and screws
• Starter panels (if not already installed)

Make sure to have your tools handy. You’ll need:

• Level
• Pencil
• Drill
• Studfinder
• Step Ladder

Plan, Measure and Align

Before you start, take the time to plan, measure, and align your golf room installation properly. Here’s how:

• Review your panel diagram for where to place the correctly sized panels on each wall.
• Understand the orientation of the panels and cleat. Wall cleat will align perpendicular to the screen on the walls and parallel to the screen on the ceiling.
• Before diving into installation, take a look at where the panels will get installed. Develop a clear plan for positioning your cleats to ensure that each cleat spans the seam of two adjacent panels. The wall panels are designed to install snug against the starter panels. If you haven't already, install the starter panels.

Cleat Installation on Walls

Now it's time to install the cleat. Make sure to install the cleats into a secure surface like plywood studs or use drywall anchors. If you start installing cleat near the screen, the cleat can sit right up against the starter panel. Align the first cleat at the lower part of the wall 1 to 2 inches above the floor. Position it with the hold section against the wall and facing downward, creating space on top for the Z clip to rest. Level the cleat and mark three fastening points, one at each end and one in the middle.

Secure the cleat to the wall using anchors if necessary at each end and one screw in the middle using the long screws provided. Do not overtighten. Install the next cleat above the first cleat. Exact placement varies based on your room's panel customization. However, the cleat should sit about 4 inches below the top edge of the panel.

Install the third and fourth cleat. Line up your panel again to gauge the placement of the next two cleats. While there's some flexibility in their placement, ensure that one edge sits at least 2 inches behind the panel with the remaining part extending beyond the panel to accommodate the installation of the next panel. Proceed to install these two cleats.

Placing Wall Panels

Prepare Z clips. Uncover the adhesive on the back of the four Z clips. Set a Z clip into each cleat. Four Z clips in total. Measure the Z clip spacing to align with the panel's width, leaving approximately 1 inch on each side. Keep the Z clips near the panel's edge for proper corner alignment.

Now it's time to place the panel. Ensure the panel is level, then firmly press it against the adhesive. Lift to remove the panel with the Z clip now adhered. If any Z clips did not stick, carefully set it back in place and press more firmly. Secure each Z clip to the panel using the short screws provided.

Once the Z clips are secured, you can set the panel back into position on the cleat. Make sure to keep the last cleats one to two inches from the edge of the wall to keep it out of sight for a more finished look.

Ceiling Installation

 Once both walls are complete, it's time to start the ceiling installation. Start in the middle of the screen to determine where to install the panels. This helps get equal spacing at each end. Orient the cleat with the hold section against the ceiling and toward the screen with the opening for the Z clips facing away from the screen. Begin the first row of cleats 2 to 3 inches from the starter panel edge and 1 to 2 inches from the wall. Using the same method to install as you did with the wall panels, install the ceiling panels starting at the screen and working away from it. 

 Before you call it a day, do one final check to make sure there's even spacing between every panel. You're now ready to begin using your new built-in golf enclosure. If you have any questions or feedback, feel free to shoot us an email, give us a call, or contact us on our website. We want to see your new golf setup. Go to www.carlofet.com/share-with-us to send us pics, videos, or reviews of your brag-worthy setup. Be sure to subscribe to our channel for more videos on building, using, and enhancing your own golf simulator.