How to Assemble a Pro Golf Simulator Enclosure Kit

Whether you’ve already purchased a Pro Golf Simulator Enclosure Kit or you’re still trying to decide if it’s the right fit for you, this golf enclosure assembly video walks through the quick and easy steps for assembling this kit in your home or business.

In the video, the team from Carl’s Place will walk you through the main assembly steps, including:

  • Building the frame
  • Installing the Ceiling Panel
  • Installing the Side Panels
  • Hanging the Impact Screen
  • Installing the Foam Cushions

Did you know that a Golf Simulator Enclosure is a proven way to increase off-season revenue for your golf course or event business? If you’re not sure what size enclosure to order, be sure to check out our article on How to Choose the Best Golf Simulator Size.

Build Your Top Golf Simulator Using 2-inch EMT

Building your top-of-the-line Golf Simulator using 2-inch EMT

Our Pro Golf Simulator Enclosure Kits are designed for high-end golf simulator installations. However, it is important to know that it’s not always about what you see that can make or break your golf simulator enclosure. This is why Carl’s Place provides all necessary components and recommends using structural tubing in the form of 2-inch Electrical Metallic Tubing/Conduit (EMT) to build our Pro Enclosures. 

Carl’s Place offers the option of precut and marked 2-inch EMT with any Pro Enclosure purchase.

Carl’s Tip: EMT is a zinc-coated steel tube that is strong and relatively lightweight, making it the perfect material to frame your enclosure. We do not recommend using PVC or rigid tubing with our kits.


If the customer would rather buy and cut their own 2-inch EMT instead of having it shipped from Carl’s Place, check in with your local hardware store or big-box store.

Included in your Carl’s Place Pro Golf Enclosure Kit will be details on what lengths and quantities of EMT are required. Most hardware stores have 2-inch EMT available in 10-foot sections, and some stores will even cut the EMT down to the sizes that you need. If you want to cut the EMT to size at home, we suggest using a sawzall style saw or a standard chop saw. 

Be sure to make safety your top priority. Wear proper eye and ear protection when using any cutting tools, and in order to avoid cuts to your hands and make assembly easier, we suggest using a file and deburring tool to smooth out the pipe edges after cutting. The diagram in the kit will help you mark and assemble your frame.


Our customer service team at Carl’s Place answers many questions about other options for the framing of a golf simulator enclosure. We suggest using EMT to create a frame that can bear weight and a structure that will support electronics, projector mounts and other accessories. 

We don’t suggest using PVC piping because it can be flexible at times, causing sagging and fitting issues. Sagging causes the side walls to not stay taut and could have a “stage curtain effect,” meaning the screen might not hang flat because the vertical and horizontal pipes begin to bow.

Also, the fittings of the Carl’s Place Pro Enclosure are specially designed to be used with 2-inch EMT and not 2-inch PVC pipes as the different types of pipes are slightly different sizes. 

Although our DIY Enclosures use 1-inch EMT, we do not suggest using that for our Pro Enclosures as the smaller piping cannot support the same amount of weight. The 2-inch EMT has thicker side walls and is more rigid, allowing it to span wider distances than the 1-inch. Also, the 1-inch EMT cannot bear the weight of an overhead launch monitor or mounted projector.

Carl’s Place Pro Enclosures use the 2-inch EMT to build wider and deeper enclosures without having to brace the longer lengths with vertical supports.

We rarely, if ever, hear of any damage to EMT from errant shots due to the overall strength of the EMT, but also because our Pro Enclosures come with padding that protects the piping from ball strikes. The padding also protects the player(s) by keeping balls from ricocheting back at them off the piping.

Wondering how to connect your 2-inch EMT at the corners of your Pro Enclosure? Carl’s Place offers 2-inch steel fittings for piping connections and corners.


When looking at a Pro Enclosure, the actual outer dimensions of the 2-inch EMT frame will be roughly 5 inches larger than the listing size. For instance, if you are looking at the 90 inches tall by 156 inches wide (16:9 aspect ratio) set up, the actual outer dimensions of the enclosure would be 95 inches tall by 160.5 inches wide.

Orders with a 'Pipe Framing Kit' ship freight. You or the recipient needs to be present at the time of delivery and assume responsibility for unloading the pallet or be responsible for any charges incurred at the time of delivery. The heaviest box is likely to weigh about 50 pounds. Customers who are unable to unload the pallet box-by-box should add lift gate service. Price is an estimate that is valid to most locations.

For more information on each enclosure size, please reference the specifications tab underneath the pricing information on our Pro Enclosure web page


Video Transcript

Please note, this transcript is for reference only. For complete guidance on assembling your PRO Golf Simulator Enclosure Kit, please read the Assembly Manual, available on the PRO Enclosure webpage.


At Carl’s Place, our Golf Simulator Enclosures are designed to be user-friendly and easy to assemble. In this video, we will provide you with some tips and tricks, as well as walk you through the setup process for our Pro Enclosure kit.


What you will need:

You’ll want to start by organizing your Frame kit by size and shape. Your Pro kit will include: two-inch steel fittings, all required EMT frame tubing, a black knit fabric ceiling panel and two wall panels, an Impact screen, four safety cushions, one ceiling bumper, two mitered wall bumpers, and 6-inch ball bungees, and zip ties. Optional add-ons for the kits include projector or electronics mounts, net wall extensions, and vinyl ceiling baffles. If you purchased your Prokit without the optional pipe framing included, you’ll need to purchase the EMT from a local hardware store and cut it to size.  Detailed assembly instructions are also included to help guide you step-by-step in the assembly process.

Make sure to have your tools handy - You’ll need at least one six-millimeter hex key or bit, a measuring tape, and two 8-foot tall step ladders. 


Assemble the Frame:

Once you have your workspace prepped, it’s time to assemble your frame. Be sure to reference your specific diagram insert included with your kit, that details the dimensions of the specific sized kit that you ordered. 

Before you start assembling the frame, make sure that your fitting screws are loose, so that you can insert the EMT pipes without interference. 

Begin assembling your frame by connecting any of the “C” fittings, or straight fittings, to the appropriate EMT pipes marked on your cut sheet.

Take note that the pipe is inserted all the way into the fittings. Tighten the fittings to the EMT using a 6-millimeter hex bit

Start by building the frame from the floor up. Take one of your assembled width pipes and two of your depth pipes and lay them out in a U - shape on the floor. Your two included “L” fittings will be assembled at the front of the enclosure, with the “three-way connection fittings” or “F3 fittings”, at the rear. 

Next, insert the EMT pipes for your height. Put “F3” fittings on the tops of each pipe, but  Don’t fully tighten these fittings down until the top half of the frame is inserted into each fitting. 

When assembling the top half of the frame, it’s important to work from the back of the enclosure to the front. Point the bolts on all fittings to face toward the rear of the enclosure.

Double-check that all fitting screws are tightened down and complete the frame assembly by measuring the frame to make sure that all dimensions match the length specified in your diagram. 


Attach Ceiling panel:

The next step is to attach your ceiling panel. If your enclosure design includes a crossbar, you will have two ceiling panels. In a similar fashion to the EMT pipes, work from the back to the front. In this case, the ceiling panel with the green-colored ribbon will fill the space closest to the screen. Working diagonally from each corner, attach the ceiling panel to the frame using the included ball bungee cords. Insert the loop end of the bungee into a grommet, threading it through until the ball stops it. Wrap the cord loop around the frame tubing and hook it over the ball to create a loop. We recommend having the ball end face inwards on the enclosure.


( - Carl’s tip -) Wear the bungees around your wrist like a bracelet to keep both hands free for installing the bungee cords.


Once the four corners are attached, continue to alternate from corner to corner, adding more bungees down the sides until finishing at the center of each side.

Make sure to check and adjust the spacing between the panel and frame so that all spacing is even on all sides. Use the provided zip ties to pull the panel to close the gaps between the panels and the frame. 

(Tip:) Use a zip tie anywhere the gap is over 2-inches for a better fit. This might only be necessary at the corners of a panel - if needed at all. 


The panel with the yellow-colored ribbon fills the other half of the ceiling. 

Orient the ceiling panel so that the front flap is hanging toward the floor, and the edge with the ribbon is toward the screen.

Fold the front flap over the frame and attach it to the top of the ceiling panel.

Install (Optional) Baffles:

If you purchased optional vinyl baffles, now is the time to install them.

Insert a bungee through the loop of cord on the baffle and attach the bungee around the frame. Hang the baffles with the matte side facing the front of the enclosure and stretch them to the top of the frame using one bungee on each side. Zip-ties can be used to apply extra tension if needed. Baffles can be spaced at any preferred distance away from the screen, but typically are most effective 1 to 1 and a half feet apart.


Attach the wall panels:

To attach the wall panels, uninstall the L fittings at the bottom front of the frame in order to thread the bottom pipe and vertical pipe through the fabric sleeves of the wall panel. The left wall panel is marked with a blue ribbon and the right panel is marked with a red-colored ribbon.

(Tip:) Check for burs - be careful not to rip the material on any sharp ends of the pipes when sliding on the sleeve.


Once the panel sleeve is over both the bottom and front pipes, reinstall the “L” fitting and attach the hook-and-loop that wraps around it.

Next, work on attaching the corners to the frame. Attach the front sleeve of the panel with the top of the frame and secure it with a bungee. Repeat this process with the bottom sleeve to the back of the enclosure. Then, stretch the upper-rear corner grommet to the frame corner using two bungees (one connecting in each direction.) Alternate from top to side, adding more bungees to continue to stretch the panel until all grommets are attached with bungees. 

(Tip:) place the bungee ball on the inside for a clean look once it is fully assembled. Repeat by installing the left wall panel.


Use the zip-tie method to straighten out any edges

It’s important to attach the flaps in this order: First, use the flaps attached to the upper - inside of the wall panel to stretch and attach to the ceiling using the hook-and-loop fasteners

Next, use the flap attached to the outside of the wall to cover the frame by stretching it over and attaching it to the top of the ceiling panel. 

(Tip:) When attaching the hook-and-loop flaps start in the middle and work out 


This flap includes a formed cover to wrap around the front corner of the frame.


Installing Screen:

Now it’s time to attach your impact screen to the frame. Be careful unfolding your screen to keep it from touching the floor and becoming dirty. The front of the screen should be mounted with the hook and loop strip facing toward the inside of the enclosure. Start by attaching bungees in each of the four corners of the screen to the frame, and proceed to attach each remaining grommet to the frame. Note that each corner grommet should have two ball bungees go through it - one will attach to a side and the other to the top or bottom. This is where a block of wood comes in handy. Use blocks of wood to keep the frame raised while you bungee the bottom of the screen to the enclosure.


Install Impact Cushions 

There are three different sizes of impact cushions included with the enclosure. The widest of the cushions is attached to the bottom of the screen using hook-and-loop. The remaining square-cut cushion closes the top corner between the screen and ceiling. 

(Tip:) Hold the two square end cushions back to back if you have trouble telling which is bigger. The big one goes on the bottom. Finally, the two mitered cushions close the corners between the screen and the wall panels. 

Further installation:


At this point, you can install any additional add-ons to your existing enclosure setup. Adding turf to a hard floor is a great way to minimize bounce. You can also purchase a Carl’s Place hitting mat to add to your enclosure. 


If the space where you are installing your enclosure has windows or ambient light coming from behind the screen, Carl’s Place also offers a black-out back panel, which preserves a crisp, bright image. This blackout back panel is installed by attaching the hook-and-loop straps around the back edge of the enclosure with the panel.

  • Your setup is complete and you can begin using your new PRO golf simulator enclosure! Make sure that you keep enough space between the screen and any walls behind it to avoid causing contact. In most cases 6‐12 inches is sufficient. We recommend using new golf balls that are free from any scuffs or permanent marker to maximize the life of your screen and to keep it from marking up. 


Thanks for watching this video! If you have any questions or feedback feel free to shoot us an email, give us a call, or contact us on our website. Be sure to subscribe to our channel for more videos on building, using, and enhancing your own golf simulator enclosure. 

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